Ambassador Silas Rossi reviews the Brooks-Range Stubai Tent on a recent trip to the Ruth Gorge.
On April 10th, 2013 Peter Doucette and I flew to the Ruth Gorge for the second time in two years, our goal being to climb a new route on one of the peaks. For the first seven days of our two and a half week trip we encountered incredibly cold conditions, with temps sinking to -35 degrees Fahrenheit at night.
On day 11, after getting shut down on an attempt of a new line on Mount Bradley, we skied down the Ruth Gorge and approached an incredibly aesthetic line on a satellite peak of Mount Johnson. We climbed for 13 hours that day before bivying directly below the steep ice smear that became the crux of the route.
The following day was again full-value, climbing 12 hours to the “summit” of the satellite peak before immediately descending the route by rappelling. All told, we were away from our base camp for more than 48 hours. This new line, which we called “Twisted Stair” offers difficult ice and mixed climbing and is very sustained in nature. We graded it Alaska Grade V, WI 6 R/X, M6+, 2300’.